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Terry your solution is far more sophisticated than mine, I just use a 90 degree fence on my drill press, I apply my dots to the fingerboard before I attach it to the neck, I have also found that for some reason (I guess they are harder) metal working bits seem to have less flex.

I eyeball it, and it usually goes fine. I tend to use metalworking bits because I've found them to be more accurate and less flexible (twist pattern is different, for one thing).

Your method will only really work with a compound radius board, I'd think; single radius board edges get thinner as you move up the neck.

I found the perfect solution with a student last year - all his side dots were dead on except one - it really bothered him so we discussed getting it out - no easy task. The solution - we drilled (routed) it out in the drill press with a 1/16 inch router bit (using a fence). So now every time I do side dots, I use the router bit first to set the hole - it only has about 3/16 of cutting length and is solid carbide, 1/4 inch shank - lee valley - and dosent flex at all, so you get a dead on pilot hole for the 2mm drill bit. Works every time.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

I find my system to be flawless and absolutely guarenteed, I don't put any in at all, that way they are never in the wrong place.

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

I do my FB before attaching to the neck, also. I sandwich the FB between two squared strips of wood so that it sits level and square on the drill press table, then use a fence to make sure all holes are drilled the same. Using a brad point bit, I haven't had any "wandering" problems. I use 3/32" MOP dots.

Ron

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OLD MAN formerly (and formally) known as:

Ron Wisdom

Somewhere in the middle of Arkansas......

i used to do them by hand,

but i recently bought a 5 axis cnc just for doing this job.

[QUOTE=PaddyD] i used to do them by hand,

but i recently bought a 5 axis cnc just for doing this job.

[/QUOTE]

What an awesome reason to buy a new tool! I'm gonna try that one with the wife!!

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http://www.presnallguitars.com

Just to clarify,


i am joking


i dont think i could really justify a 300k dot installer.......

but a bottle opener.... now theres an idea!

paddy

I sometimes do as Terry, but usually just mark the spot with a pencil, visually in the center of the frets. Then I lay a piece of celluloid binding on the workbench beside the fretboard, and drill the hole at the mark. I get a perfect .060" margin everytime, moving the binding to a new spot each time so it doesn't wearlower.

Nice jig Terry. Won't the hole eventually enlarge?

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http://www.dickeyguitars.com

I reckon that will work Colin

Great jig Terry, thanks for the great tips guys!

Serge

On the last guitar I finished (I'll post pics soon), I forgot to put the side dots in. I don't put markers on the face of the fretboard as a rule (I'd put 'em in if a customer really wanted them, but I'd try to talk them out of it). So, this guitar, which I have no plans to sell, has no markers. I'm thrilled with this. It is just the push I needed to break the habit of looking at the neck while playing - a bad habit, indeed, IMHO.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

I've pondered doing no dots, or fewer dots, simply because I play with a capo quite a bit, which means they're sometimes more of a chore than a blessing. On the other hand, they're one of the very few decorative touches I put on my necks, and I do like the shiny pearly abalone-y-ness...

Terry,

Do you center punch the holes prior to drilling?
Why not use your type of jig prior to mounting the FB from the back,(flat) side.

I use a 90 degree fence with a router bit and it's quite accurate.

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Paul Bordeaux
http://www.bordeauxinlay.com

Great thread guys, great tips! Thanks!

Serge